My Favorite Vegan Restaurants in Tokyo

Molly's of Clean Food Dirty Girl Vegan Restaurants in Tokyo

I took a 10-day trip to Tokyo for my 44th birthday this year and had SO MUCH fun. I had every intention of it being a personal trip and not a work trip, but that quickly changed when I realized how many amazing vegan restaurants there are in Tokyo. There was NO way I wouldn’t be sharing them with you!

Since we were staying in Tokyo the whole time, my partner spent weeks researching all the vegan restaurant options. I didn’t realize how many there were until we got there! She had dozens of restaurants pinned to her Google map, and she even made reservations for two restaurants that were hard to get into long before we arrived to Japan.

This post is focused on my absolute favorite vegan restaurants in Tokyo. There were so many good ones, but these are the ones I still think about and will prioritize going back to on my next trip. None of the restaurants we went to were specifically whole-food plant-based, but most of them used very little oil and were generous with the veggies and whole grains. Of all the places I’ve traveled, Japan has the healthiest plant-based options when eating out. We visited in July, which isn’t really the best time to go because it’s hot AF, but luckily it was overcast and a little rainy for most of our trip. We did many fun things, but eating at all the vegan restaurants (especially the ones below!) was definitely one of the best parts of the trip. Enjoy!

Vegan Gyoza

Sooo…it used to be a lot easier for me to eat plant-based while traveling, but in 2019, I developed a skin condition called Perioral Dermatitis. Long story short, I was able to get rid of the symptoms by doing a combination of things—one of which was eliminating gluten from my diet. Since then, I’ve tried to reintroduce gluten a couple times, but every time I do, my face starts to get itchy. So, I remain committed to avoiding all the best things in life, like sourdough and croissants.

All this to say, I am extremely picky when it comes to putting gluten in my mouth. 99% of the time I won’t do it because I know the agony in store for me if I do. But there have been exceptions, and this is one of them: a restaurant that serves nothing but vegan gyoza. Gyoza is one of my favorite things ever. I prefer them steamed rather than fried, and the more filling, the better. When I read the reviews for this restaurant, simply called Vegan Gyoza, I knew I was going to break my gluten abstinence.

I figured I would try one and if it was meh, I could stop and go find something else to eat. If I’m going to eat gluten it has to be worth it, damn it! Spoiler alert, IT WAS NOT MEH.

The outside of Vegan Gyoza. It says vegetarian, but it is fully vegan.
The outdoor seating area was zipped in and had air conditioning.

There were 11 different flavors to choose from, and you could order them steamed, pan-fried, or a mix of both, which is what we did. The colors were GORGEOUS. I’d read about the colors in the reviews online, but they were even prettier in person. The food coloring is all natural and derived from fruits and vegetables like pumpkin, spinach, purple cabbage, and carrots.

Some of the steamed gyoza.

When the gyoza was brought out, I was surprised there wasn’t any dipping sauce. But it says right on the top of the menu, “No need for sauce.” I couldn’t imagine gyoza not needing sauce, so I was intrigued.

As soon as I took my first bite, I understood. They DID NOT need sauce. They were juicy and so freaking flavorful! Each color had a different combination of fillings and flavors. We tried all 11. The green onion miso, celery, and shiitake were my favorites, but they were all little pockets of heaven. They were hands down the best gyoza I have ever had in my life—and I’ve had a lot of gyoza.

The pan-fried version. They look like scoops of ice cream!

They also had some fun drinks like a chocolate matcha latte, strawberry matcha, and lemon soda.

Delicious strawberry matcha.
Starting with the top black one and going clockwise, the flavors were:
green onion miso, garlic miso, celery, and kimchi, and Chinese chives.

The interior of the restaurant is small and cute, with about 4 or 5 tables. We went early so there was no line or wait.

You know the best part? After eating a dozen gyoza, my face did not have any kind of reaction! My partner who also has a hard time with gluten didn’t experience her usual post-gluten fatigue. I can’t wait to eat here again one day.

A takeaway menu with the 11 flavors. I took one home with me so I would never forget!!!

Recto Sand Cafe

There are good restaurants that have exceptional food, and there are exceptional restaurants that have good food. Recto Sand Cafe is an exceptional restaurant with exceptional food. It’s in a tiny space that fits about eight people. From the moment you walk in, the whole experience is charming, kind, and wrapped in love. And the food, which is gluten-free and vegan, is something special with a touch of magic. Yes, it tastes really good, but it’s more than that. The food is prepared with such care and tenderness that you can feel it.

We ate there three times during our trip, and it will be my first priority the next time I’m in Tokyo. Every time we were there, it was an all-women crew. They spoke a tiny bit of English and were so kind. One day, we went for lunch, and it was extremely hot and humid outside. The restaurant is a little bit of a walk from the train station, so I was overheated when we arrived. My face was bright pink, and I wasn’t feeling well. The kind ladies immediately brought out a floor fan, pointed it directly at me, and then brought a big carafe of cold water to the table. The gesture was so kind and genuine that it made me well up with tears. I finally cooled down, and we had an amazing lunch.

Another time, we went here for an early dinner, and when we arrived, it was sunny and dry, but by the time we were ready to leave, it was pouring rain. The ladies offered an umbrella to take with us since we didn’t have one. We would have accepted and brought it back the next day, but it was our last day in Tokyo. The kind offer filled me up with inspiration and hope for humanity. I can’t wait to go back!

The front of the restaurant. You can order takeaway from the little window or sit inside if there’s room.

I’d never had a vegan and gluten-free madeleine cookie. We happened to finish lunch just as they came out of the oven, and it was absolutely dreamy biting into the soft pillowy goodness. It was not too sweet, and the texture was perfect.

A madeleine fresh out of the oven.

They also had a soy ice cream and blueberry shake with a vegan, gluten-free donut on top! I loved their sweet treats because they were hardly sweet at all—just sweet enough to register as sweet. If you go to a vegan restaurant in the U.S., their desserts are usually way too sweet. I love Japanese vegan food because it’s actually about being healthy, not about trying to be vegan versions of junk food.

Soy ice cream and blueberry shake with a vegan, gluten-free donut on top. I loved the small portion as well.

They have a set menu and a daily special. They make the components in small batches and set them on the counter for lunch and dinner service. Everything stays fresh and is rotated often because of the many customers and small batches. It reminded me of my kitchen on batching day! Dirties will appreciate this!

Containers of various cooked and pickled veggies and tofu.

They serve mainly macrobiotic food with an emphasis on organic ingredients. Everything was so fresh and yummy. I was obsessed with their fermented brown rice, and I definitely want to experiment with making it at home.

Miso soup, fermented brown rice, pickled veggies, fresh salad with miso tahini dressing, and flash-fried tempura.

The emphasis at this restaurant is on veggies, tofu, and fermented brown rice. And miso soup, of course! They do fry some things, but they are fried really quickly at super high heat.

Miso soup, fermented rice, veggies, and tofu.

All of the vegan restaurants we went to had English menus because a lot of their customers are tourists.

Recto Sand Cafe really filled me with joy. The combination of healthy food, kind people, and a welcoming, relaxed atmosphere made this my second favorite vegan restaurant we went to.

Saido

Saido opened in 2018, and it’s been on Happy Cow’s “best of” list featuring the top-rated vegan restaurants and cafes in the world for the past two years. Chef Katsumi Kusumoto was trained in classic French cuisine, working for some of the best French restaurants in Tokyo, before he went his own way and wowed the world with his plant-based cuisine.

The restaurant is tucked away in a charming garden setting. You wouldn’t happen to stumble upon this restaurant—it’s somewhere people go with intention.

This was one of the restaurants my partner made a reservation for weeks before we left for our trip. If you want to experience this place, which I HIGHLY recommend, be sure to reserve a table before your trip. For dinner service, there are three different set courses to choose from. You have to choose which set you want when you book, so it’s kind of a guess as to which one to pick. We chose the “Special Course,” which was 9 courses.

If you’re not looking closely, it’s easy to miss from the street (which is a small residential-looking side street)

The interior of the restaurant is small and intimate. I couldn’t believe how tiny the kitchen was! There were just two people working: the chef and one server. Neither of them spoke English, and there wasn’t a menu, so we had no idea what to expect. The food is all plant-based and gluten-free, so we came hungry and ready for anything!

The meal started with a Japanese corn soup consommé that was SHUT-THE-FRONT-DOOR good. It was light, airy, and simple, but the flavor was in-freaking-credible. I still dream about this soup.

The vegan sushi platter made me do a double-take! Topped with things like corn, mushroom, red and yellow pepper, thinly sliced radish, tofu with a seaweed layer, and ginger flower, this was a lot of fun to eat. The “eel” (on the bottom to the right of the corn) was one of the best things I’ve ever put in my mouth. It was made from soy, but I have no idea what magic they used to transform the flavor. I had so many questions, but because of the language barrier, it had to remain a delicious mystery.

These were soy kebabs that were awesome. The flavoring was spot on, and the texture was something you could really bite into. A tad “meaty” for me, but they were fun to eat.

The little “logs” under the griddle were actually carrots that were totally edible. And, despite their appearance, they didn’t have any kind of burnt taste!

This was a delicious quiche plate with tender veggies and a mayo type of sauce on the quiche.

You can’t do traditional Japanese food if you leave out the tempura! Lotus root, kabocha squash, mushroom, and red pepper were coated in a batter and quickly fried in super-hot oil. They were not greasy or heavy.

This bowl of ramen was out of this world! Would you look at that vegan egg! The rice noodles were perfectly cooked, and the broth was insane. The problem was, this could have been my ENTIRE meal, the portion was so big. Normally that would have been A-okay, but after so many courses, I could only eat half, which was heartbreaking because it was SO DAMN good!

This dessert got me! I was already a Saido fan from my first bite, but this put me over the edge. It was a luscious raspberry mousse served in a little pot and topped with roasted chopped almonds and a sprig of mint so it looked like a little potted plant. Not only was the presentation adorable, the dessert was perfection. Oh, and the spoon looked like a shovel—get out!!

The chef came by our table when we were done to thank us for eating at his restaurant, and I took the opportunity to snap a pic with this plant-based wizard! What a meal this was! My life is better having eaten at Saido.

Ain Soph

As amazing as all the restaurants in Japan were, this was my number one, my ride-or-die, the peanut butter to my jam. Ain Soph opened in 2009, and they have three locations in Tokyo and one in Kyoto.

They are 100% vegan and 100% delicious. We went to their Ginza location and their Shinjuku location. Both were amazing, but I preferred the Ginza location. The atmosphere was super charming, and the food was “Holy shit, what am I eating??” good.

It’s recommended to make a reservation, even for lunch, but we went three times and only had a reservation once. We got lucky!

This is the Ginza location. It’s super small but has a few floors. The first floor is a patisserie with yummy pastries, and the additional floors are seating for the restaurant.
Maybe one reason I loved this location was because it reminded me of being in Paris. Paris has many buildings with plants like this.

Not only did they sell pastries, they also sold bags, wallets, coin purses, and jewelry made out of cactus leather! I bought a coin purse for a good friend, and it was luxurious.

The second floor holds four tables.
The menu is small and manageable.

This is the bento box, and it was perfect. There was a piece of quiche made from tofu, vegan katsu, spinach soup, a lovely fresh salad, brown rice, and tomato soup. The food was simple, yet so flavorful and comforting.

When I saw you could order a salad and one of their famous pancakes with ice cream as a lunch set, I bowed! Genius move on their part. I could not get over how fresh the salad and veggies were. It was like they were just picked from a garden that morning. The dressing was light and flavorful. I ate every single bite.

I need a minute to unpack and process my emotions around this pancake. 

THIS is the reason Ain Soph is my number one. This one little plate of heavenly goddess.

First of all, the little pancakes were vegan AND gluten-free, so I wasn’t expecting much when I ordered them. They arrived after the salad (brilliance, I tell you!) and were served on a plate with fresh fruit, edible flowers, a few dots of a caramel-type sauce, and coconut whipped cream. The presentation was gorgeous. On a separate platter was some maple syrup, two flavors of ice cream (lemon and almond) and berry compote. 

I gathered up a bite with pancake, a bit of compote, a little whipped cream, and a touch of ice cream. AND OH MY GOD. I wasn’t prepared for it. It was a literal mouthgasm, and I couldn’t stop myself from making a noise to accompany it. My eyes got huge as I stared at my plate. What was this sorcery?? The pancake was airy and light and fluffy and delicate but it also had substance. The flavors and textures danced in my mouth, and the noise I made? It was a laugh! I was LAUGHING because it was so good! I have done this only a handful of times in my life, and this was one of them. 

I then devoured that beautiful plate of food, loving every single second of it. I was so satisfied and happy when it was over I couldn’t stop smiling. I knew I would be back.

Maple Syrup, ice cream and compote.

And back we went! We tried their Shinjuku location on my birthday. You KNOW I ordered another round of pancakes! This time, they were served on a plate with lemon sorbet, granola, mint, coconut whipped cream, and preserved lemons. DEAD! It was just as good as the other version at the Ginza location, and I was in heaven. It was the best birthday. ????

Blurry from the excitement!

Craft SoyMilk Factory

One of the best things about Japan is that soy is cool. It’s not some fringy thing like it is here in the U.S. that has very slowly gained traction and credibility over the past 40 years, even though most people still think it gives men boobs and is responsible for breast cancer. Neither of these claims are true, BTW. There have been lots of high-quality research done on soy, and it’s just not the evil bean it’s made out to be. Check out my interview with registered dietician Brenda Davis for more on that. I’m kind of proving my own point here. If I lived in Japan, I would have zero reason to justify soy. Why? Because soy is just a normal, everyday food in Japan for plant-based eaters and omnivores alike. 

Take this awesome place we stumbled upon. It’s an artisan soy milk factory that specializes in all  different flavors of fresh soy milk, soft serve ice cream, and pudding desserts where you get to choose your own toppings. This place is NOT WEIRD. In fact, it often has lines out the door! And it’s not all vegan people in these lines. It’s just regular people who enjoy good soy. This was such a refreshing attitude to experience.

The factory had big windows so you could see the soy being made, from bean to milk.

They had at least a dozen flavors of soy milk to choose from. We bought one plain unsweetened, one plain slightly sweet, and one cocoa. They were all so fresh and yummy and unlike any soy milk I’ve ever tried. There was a much stronger soy taste than you find in packaged soy milk at regular stores. I loved the flavor and found it really enjoyable. I drank it plain, added it to my oatmeal, and added a splash to my morning green tea. 

This place was such a great unexpected surprise. It’s one reason why I love exploring a city by foot with no particular destination. You find little gems that you might not know about otherwise. I will definitely go back to this place! 

Almond and matcha flavors.

This dessert was no Ain Soph heavenly pancake, but the soy was so fresh that I wanted to try the soy pudding. The base was thick soy, and then you chose your toppings. This one had red adzuki beans (a common component in Japanese desserts), two types of tapioca balls, sweet soy milk, and some syrup. It wasn’t my favorite, but people lined up for it! The best part was the thick soy custard. It reminded me of eating yogurt. Yummy, but nothing I was going to crave. The soy milk was the real star of this special place.

SoyBean Farm

Another thing I love about Japan? 

The abundance of high-quality miso. You can find it in almost any store, and there are dedicated shops specializing in the highest quality misos, like cheese shops in France or fine wine stores here in the U.S. 

This shop was a family-owned business that had been making high-quality miso for decades with locally-grown soybeans. The SoyBean Farm just happened to be right next to a vegan, gluten-free restaurant we searched out, so we stopped by after we ate.

They had so many types: barley miso, rice miso, soy miso, mixed miso, dark miso, light miso, and everything in between. The daughter spoke some English, so we had a little tour of the store. She told us about the different types and that they use Japanese soybeans, whereas most miso companies source their beans from other countries.

Nope, it’s not ice cream, it’s all different types of miso! 

Here’s how I know I’m a 44-year-old sober person: Taste-tasting high-end miso was one of the highlights of my trip. And my trip was packed with SO MANY cool experiences. But doing an impromptu miso tasting? Now THAT was fun! I don’t know how we’ve arrived here, but here we are. 

We bought a medium-color soy miso so we could make miso soup at our Airbnb. It was—no joke—the best miso I’ve ever had.

Container upon container of miso varieties.

Such a cool store with an outstanding product. It will be one of my first stops on my next trip!

If you’re vegan, get on a plane and GO TO TOKYO!!! We had the best time, ate the best food, and had the best experiences. Have you been to any of these places, or do you plan on going to Tokyo? I would love to hear from you in the comments below! 

Molly

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No Comments

  1. Marilyn K on September 21, 2024 at 11:38 am

    Going to Tokyo next spring and can’t wait to try a few of these restaurants. Nothing beats local. Thanks Molly.

  2. Felicity on September 21, 2024 at 1:13 pm

    Fabulous and so inspiring. Thank you for sharing. I am ready to plan an eating trip to Japan x

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